At
London's Royal Stock Exchange bar, patrons sparkle with gold bracelets,
diamond earrings and platinum necklaces. And it's not only the women. In
Britain, as in the United States, men's pieces now account for more
than 10 percent of jewelry sales, and are one of the fastest-growing
sectors for fine jewelry.
Why?
The '90s casual look gave way to a brief revival of the corporate suit,
which is now adding a hint of glam. Socially, bling on the necks of
working-class men has made male jewelry sufficiently macho, and the rise
of metrosexual chic has made it OK for executives. Says Mary Brittain,
editor of Jewelry magazine, "Expensive, sophisticated and subtle is in.
We're a post-bling generation now."
Last
year, Cartier, Georg Jensen and Garrard launched full lines of men's
jewelry, with platinum rings and gold sword necklaces. Names like Gucci
and Prada are offering chic takes on old staples: cuff links and tie
clips. Next month Dolce & Gabbana launches a "military-inspired"
jewelry line with 24-karat-gold dog tags. In March, Vivienne Westwood
started selling single diamond earrings for men.
The
typical customers are sartorially conservative, high-ranking executives
older than 40. "The younger men can't pull off jewelry with the
requisite confidence," says Harrod's merchandise manager Peter Nyhan.
Barneys New York now carries 10 men's jewelry designers, up from zero
two years ago, and top men's buyer Tom Kalendrian sees signs that this
trend is here to stay: "This is not a gift business," he says. "The men
are shopping themselves."
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By Emily Vencat Flynn
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